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Straight Top 2 Finished Ends

Bevella RTI Countertops are engineered and manufactured to the highest quality standards, built to your exact specifications and are easy to install for the home enthusiast who has the skills set for general home improvement projects around the house.

Installing a Bevella RTI Countertop will give your kitchen an amazing new look at such an affordable price, your budget won’t be stretched to the max.  The savings you are about to enjoy, will enable you to complete many other projects around the house.

Let’s Get Started

Tools Required

Tape Measure
Hammer
Pry Bar
Clamps
3/8" Variable Speed Drill
5/8" Speed Bore Bit
Jig-Saw with fine tooth blade (Laminate Cutting Preferred)
Screwdriver (Phillips & Flat)
Framing Square
Compass
Belt Sander with 80 Grit Belt
Fine mill file
7/16” Box Wrench (for bolts to connect countertop joints)
Shims
Caulking Gun with Adhesive Caulk (i.e. Phenoseal, etc., color to blend with top)
!” Plastic Putty Knife
Duct Tape
Pencil
Sharpie Fine Point Marker Pen
Various Wrenches for disconnecting sink and/or cooktop

Disconnect Your Sink – Be sure to shut off water valves under the sink.  If there are no valves and the main water supply has to be shut off, now may be the right time to consider putting valves in.  You may want to contact a local plumber to handle this part of the project.  Disconnect trap and tailpiece from basket strainer.

Care should be taken not to force wrenches either un-tightening or tightening joints.

Remove The Sink From Your Countertop – Sinks with metal rims, and self rimming stainless steel sinks are generally held in with clips from the underside of the countertop.  You may want to use a flashlight to locate them.  You can generally use a long slotted screwdriver to un-loosen and remove them.

Caution:  Sometimes the sink will fall out of the rim once clips are removed.  Cast Iron sinks are heavy and should be propped up from underneath before removing clips. 

Cast Iron Self Rimming sinks on the other hand are removed from the top of the counter.  They are usually glued under the rim with an adhesive caulk. 

Tip:  You can use a portable hairdryer to heat a small putty knife to help cut through the caulk.  Once adhesive caulk is loose, sink can be lifted out.

Use caution when lifting any sink out of the countertop.  Faucets can be damaged easily if pulled on to help remove sink.

Remove Cooktop or Built in Appliances – Be sure gas is shut off to any appliance to be removed.  If a gas valve is not present for the appliance now may be the right time to consider putting valves in.  You may want to contact a local plumber to handle this part of the project.

For electrical appliances be certain power is turned off prior to disconnecting and removing.

Built in countertop appliances are held in by various methods, clips from underneath, screws from inside (in many cases cooktop top surfaces lift up for cleaning or installation), etc. Consult your appliance manual when possible.

Caution: It is always advisable to contact a Licensed Plumbing or Electrical Contractor for removal and reinstallation of fixtures and appliances.  Most contractors will be more than happy to assist you with this phase.

Dishwasher – Open dishwasher and remove mounting screws secured to countertop.  There are generally two metal brackets that extend out at the top of the tub where these screws are located and can be seen with the door open.  Close door and lock shut. (This keeps door closed and unit from tipping over during countertop installation)

Remove the existing Countertop – Countertops are generally secured by screws from underneath, through cabinet framing in the front, or corner blocks located inside the cabinets.

If it is a very old countertop (with metal trim around the edge perimeter), it may have been nailed down through the top before the laminate was applied.  You may have to pry the counter up to free it from the cabinets. 

Tip: Carefully making a cut in the sink or cooktop openings will allow you to work with smaller pieces making the removal somewhat easier.

Caution - Be careful not to damage walls, cabinets or appliances when removing countertops or its pieces.

Carefully unpack your countertop removing all staples, cardboard covering and packing.

Use caution when handling so as not to damage front edges, joints or seams.  The job becomes simpler if you have a helper.

Carefully slide your countertop pieces into position to check condition of walls and overall fit.  Walls are generally not straight and rooms are often out of square.  This can easily be taken care of with a few simple adjustments during your installation.

Tip:  Before marking any countertop surface for cutting, apply duct tape first. then scribe or draw lines on duct tape and go over pencil line with Sharpie marker.  Duct tape will protect the top while cutting with jig saw.  Metal bases on jig saws can mar laminate surfaces

Straight Tops with 2 Finished Ends
(No walls either side)

1. Carefully place your countertop into position and slide it against the wall. Measure the countertop overhang (distance countertop extends past cabinet front) at the left end, and at the right end.  Adjust countertop piece to even out front overhang.   If the gaps in the back are minimal after this adjustment, your backsplash can be permanently mounted and caulk can fill these slight gaps at the top and sides. 

2. If the gaps are larger than ⅛” the countertop can be scribed to fit. See Scribing the Countertop and Humps in the Wall.

3. To complete the installation see Sink Cut Outs/Appliance Cut Outs and Installing the Backsplashes

4. Reinstall sink and appliances

Scribing The Countertop

To scribe the counter, set the compass to the desired gap width and run the pointer along the wall scribing a line onto the back of the countertop.  You can either cut the material away with the jig saw with a laminate blade installed or use the belt sander to remove the wood and laminate to the scribed line.  (It is easier to remove ⅛“ or less material with the belt sander. Always sand in a down direction against the laminate)  A fine mill file can be used to gently file the burr off the top edge of the laminate after cutting.

Humps in the Wall

This can be handled in one of two ways.  The back of the countertop can be scribed to the hump, or the drywall or plaster can be removed in that area so the countertop can be recessed into the wall

Sink Cut Outs/Appliance Cut Outs

1. Sinks are generally located in the center of the window or center of the cabinet that it sets in.  Once countertop piece is positioned properly and before the backsplash is attached, apply duct tape to the area where the sink or appliance is to be cut and lay out your cut – out.  Remember to allow for the ¾” backsplash behind the sink and appliances. 

Tip: If possible it is always best to lay your sink or appliance upside down on the top to assure placement.  Trace the perimeter.  Remove the fixture and draw the cutout line inside the perimeter line.

Remember measure twice, cut once!  The hole for your fixture or appliance MUST be smaller than the overall dimension of your fixture or appliance that is going into that cutout.  Carefully check your measurements!

2. Drill a hole inside your cutout with the speed bore bit.  This will be the starting point for cutting with your jigsaw.  NEVER cut square corners.  Most, if not all sinks, require radius corners in their cut-outs.  Cut-outs for appliances that have square corners still require a small radius.  Use your speed bore bit to drill a hole in each corner for this type of cut-out.  Square corners in laminate cut-outs encourage stress cracks and should be avoided.
    

Installing the Backsplashes

Note: Be Careful! Your splashes are left or right.  The edge molding over-hangs to properly fit when connected in the back corner.

Countertop was not scribed to the wall

1. To install the backsplashes and you did not have to scribe the countertops to the wall slide top forward and drill 3/16” holes 3/8” in from back edge, 6” 8” apart.  Start about 2” in from the ends of the top.  Coat the entire bottom edge of the backsplash with adhesive caulking.  You can use a 1’ putty knife to spread it on evenly.  This will give you a nice watertight seal once you have screwed the backsplash in place.

2. Secure with 2 ½” wood screws holding the back of the backsplash flush with the back of the countertop.  Scrape off excess caulk after splash is secure and clean with a damp cloth
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Countertop was scribed to the wall

1. If you did scribe the countertops push them into place. Place the backsplashes on top of the countertop and push them against the wall. Trace a line in front of the splash onto the counter surface.  The splash has some flex to it and will generally conform to modest variations in the wall. Remove the splashes and pull the countertop away from the wall.  Measure 3/8” back from that line and drill 3/16’ screw holes 6” – 8” apart 2”’ in from the edge to mount your splash.  Coat the entire bottom edge of the backsplash with adhesive caulking.  You can use a 1’ putty knife to spread it on evenly.  This will give you a nice watertight seal once you have screwed the backsplash in place.  When securing it with 2 ½ screws be sure to hold the front of the splash even with your front pencil line. 
 
2. Slide Countertop back into position checking overhang on left or right or both and secure countertop with wood screws through front cabinet frame or corner blocks.  Caulk along top and sides of backsplash to seal and hide gaps.